Matviy Andreyev

Tbilisi

Matviy Andreyev

I was in Tbilisi on two separate days. This is about my first day there.

First thing I saw was the train station, as we were coming from Yerevan. The train station was looking like being renovated for trade, with a big part of it closed and fenced off for the time of works. Most part of the remaining space was also used for trade. The ticket desk hall was taking up not more than 3% of space.

Here's a view of train station from Mtatsminda hill.

Tbilisi train station as viewed from Mtatsminda mountain

An old electric train was visible from the stairway.

a rusty electric train

The doors of Pirosmani museum were closed. The museum did not work.

Pirosmani street 29 museum. Tbilisi

I resorted to taking a photo through the bars of the door.

photos on the wall of the Pirosmani museum. Tbilisi

It was interesting around the Pirosmani street, with all the seasoned buildings around us.

Old buildings of Pirosmani street in Tbilisi

Public transportation system had cool digital timetables on the stops, and they were showing precise information.

bus timetable. digital panel on a bus stop. Tbilisi

Excessive architectural details of the past.

smoked sculpture of a head over a window's center. Tbilisi old town

We descended into the subway on Sadguris Moedani station, the title of which means «station square». The system was such: you buy a card and put money on the account. You can give the card back to receive the remaining money and the cost of the card — but in an improbable case that you still have the receipt for buying it.

One of many decorations of the city — a sculpture on the central street of Shota Rustaveli.

a small statue on Rustaveli street, Tbilisi

No museums worked on that day, because it was both the May dates and the orthodox Easter. Georgia turned out to be a very religious country.

A meadow flower growing from a wall.

flower growing from a house in Tbilisi

Modern graffiti is simple — an IP address with the port number, no explanation. I googled, and it was a server with Counter Strike game. That was a lot of eights!

Gamer graffiti: ip address and port 93.188.8.88:44 on a wall in Tbilisi.

One more decorative sculpture in the tourist center — Irakliy the 2nd street.

A woman on a sheep. Small sculpture on a house wall in Tbilisi

I noticed a ropeway platform and wanted to visit it.

The upper station on the Sololaki hill

Its lower station stood in a super-modern, albeit still under construction, park called Rike. It was possible to pay the fare from that same card that was used in the subway. No card? They were available for rent at the ropeway, too.

The lower station of the Narikala ropeway

Perhaps, classic views were opening from the cabin. Built by Lettner, the ropeway was moving quietly.

Tbilisi view from a ropeway

The river of Tbilisi was called Mtkvari by the locals and Kura by someone else. The color of Kura waters was not a pleasant one.

The color of Kura in Tbilisi
PANTONE® Oil Green 17-0115 TCX

The Sololaki ridge was a very narrow one. Mother of Georgia statue (Kartlis Deda, ქართლის დედა) was visible in profile from the ropeway platform.

Mother of Georgia, Kartlis Deda, ქართლის დედა

It was only during this trip that I learned that Georgian name of Georgia was Sakartvelo, not Georgia. Now I know and I have questions why do we call it Georgia then?

The Wikipedia article about this is called «Names of Georgia»

The terrain in Tbilisi was pretty crazy, by the way. The Sololaki ridge was very narrow. More mountains were visible from it, including this view of Tabori mountain. Below us, inside the picturesque gorge, was the botanical garden.

Green hils of mountains in Tbilisi

The Abo Tbileli church had a very interesting side entrance carved inside the cliff over Kura. The entry was private and locked — I checked. Later I observed how some priest went out from a posh black Mercedes, opened the door with his keys and proceeded inside.

Abo Tbileli chursh under the Metekhi bridge in the cliff of Kura river. Tbilisi

I visited the lovely ruins which were the Narikala.

Walls, visitors and a bell at a cross in Narikala

I caught this angle of a plane through a crack in the ancient wall of Narikala.

Inverse trail through a crack in Narikala wall

There was this street on the Sololaki ridge. Botanical garden gorge is to the left, and the city was to the right.

Sololaki alley. Tbilisi

One of numerous bridges.

A bridge inside botanical garden of Tbilisi

Abanotubani was another place from the main tourist destinations. It was a cluster of sulphur baths near Tsavkisistskali (Samarkhakhevi) stream mouth in Kura river. I never was in saunas of any kind, and I did not want to, how cool I am, huh?

Верхівки бань в Тбілісі
I've been to a few saunas since.

Unpleasant soapy chemicals near the water discharge from the baths into the Tsavkisistskali riverbed.

Sediments from Abanotubani baths in Tsavkisistskali riverbed
When I was there, it seemed to me this stream was called «Samarhahevi» on the map, as well as the canyon — a name that can't even be googled nowadays, as I'm translating it all in 2025. The main name of the river seems to be Tsavkisistskali, which sounds more like a river name, than an adjective. The canyon and the falls are called Legvtakhevi, a name rooted in «a fig tree».I'm slowly googling, scouting the maps and will edit this later

These baths are old. One of them had a plaque with the years 1925-1926 on it.

Sulphur baths Т.И.К. №5 1925 1926

A cluster of colorful houses was built under Narikala. A serious local man, who was waiting in the queue to the baths, told us that these houses were some kind of Disneyland built using american money in a style that is more Tatar than Kartvelian. He added that nobody lived inside, it all stood an waited.

New, colorful wooden buildings near Abanotubani and under Narikala in Tbilisi

The terrain of the city was indeed crazy — there were waterfalls right in the center. The one shown here is Legvtakhevi waterfall, falling 22 metres in the namesake canyon — from the botanical garden to Abanotubani. There were footpaths to this waterfall on the same Tsavkisistskali stream. I did not have to pay anything at that time, but writing from the future, I see it requires some entry fee now.

Legvtakhevi waterfall on the Tsavkisistskali river. Tbilisi

The canyon totally deserved this «Risk of falling or fallen rocks ahead» road sign. The walls were simply vertical. I'd give tourists caskets here not unlike construction workers'.

Risk of falling or fallen rocks ahead — road sign in Tbilisi Legvtakhevi canyon

The footpaths we still under construction in the canyon.

A bench in Legvtakhevi canyon

Parajanov sculpture in the tourist center.

A sculpture of Parajanov in Tbilisi

A cat was increasing the carpet sales. It didn't sell anything during the minute that we were passing it by for.

A red and white cat on a carpet sold to tourists in Tbilisi center

An ultra-modern Peace bridge was loaded with modern tech like invisible illumination.

illumination in glass handrails of the Peace bridge in Tbilisi. Image shows both on and off states

The Rike park was undergoing a mega-renovation. The boldly designed theater resembled various things from various angles.

Theatre in Rike park at night. Construction. Tbilisi

The emblem of Tbilisi subway and the name of station «Avlabari». Learn Georgian, you!

Metro station «Avlabari» in Tbilisi. ავლაბარი

We came back to the train station, which looked unmaintained. The digital info panels were turned off, and there were few passenger trains.

digital info panels turned off at the train station

The interiors of a cabin of a Tbilisi — Batumi train. The lower bench was formed into three seats with backrests. To lift the seat and access the storage space under it, one had to shift the bench horizontally a bit. There were two sets of seat numbers — one for the four passenger per cabin mode, and the second one for six seated passengers. There were passengers from Iraq in the next cabin, and they had a hard time with the numbers, a problem I readily helped to solve (they spoke English).

Seats of a railway cabin in a gerogian train

Our train went to Batumi, with our wagon being in the four-passenger per cabin mode. We were going to return to Tbilisi in a day or two, and I have the second part of the story about that.