Matviy Andreyev

Lviv

Matviy Andreyev

It is possible that the tourists who come to Lviv by train, have special place for this tram control booth. Maybe, they'd even paid for the excursions, if such were available.

Tram control booth on the end of route near the train station. Lviv, Ukraine, 2013

Morning on the Horodotska street.

Horodotska street, Lviv, Ukraine, morning light

There were many homeless people in Lviv this time.

A homeless person sleeping on the corner of Horodotska and Ohyenka streets. Lviv, Ukraine, 2013

Tram routes were undergoing serious maintenance. Some routes were either stopped, or significantly changed for the time of works.

Road works on Horodotska street. Lviv, Ukraine, 2013

Paving stones were taken off, moved to the side streets in big piles.

Heap of paving stones near the judicial academy. Lviv

Polish author Stanislaw Lem had lived in this building sometime ago. The address is Bohdana Lepkoho street, 4. Not very interesting.

The birthhouse of Stanislaw Lem. Lviv, Ukraine, 2013

Cycling paths had been built in the city. One of them had a design unexpected to me: it went in the middle of the street!

A cycling path in the middle of the road near Lviv university, Ukraine, 2013

Got inside an old house at Rynok square, 29 (in the Andreolli passage). It had wooden stairs inside.

inside an old house at Rynok square, 29. Lviv, Ukraine

Rynok square was fine. The tower was closed for renovation.

Lviv rathaus tower closed for improvement works. View from the high castle. Lviv, Ukraine, 2013

People thought that they were sculpting dolphins while they were creating these two angry creatures.

Architectural details: incorrect «dolphins» on the building of the Museum of Post. Lviv

The National museum on Drahomanova street also met us with the «museum does not work» sign.

Museum does not work. Lviv, Ukraine, 2013

We parted our ways, and I continued alone to where I wanted to. The first place where I headed to was the Lviv citadel. I got there using a path from Chaykovskoho street. The trees were growing freely. They were planted to hide the firing points during one of wars.

a path and stairs in a forest near the citadel. Lviv, Ukraine, 2013

I made my way to the top. The first building I saw there was the so-called Big Maximilian tower nr. 1, built in 1854.

Big Maximilian tower nr. 1. Lviv, Citadel, Ukraine, 2013

The entrance to the tower was fenced off, but the fence ended a few meters away, and it was possible to get inside. But I did not want to.

Entrance to the tower nr. 1. Sign reading «Stefanyka library storage»

A small ground embankment went around the tower, and I checked it out a bit. Found this old firing point. A few minutes later I found out that there had been a german concentration camp called Stalag-328 here during the Second World War. The german fascists did build the firing point, too. This world is a sad place.

An old german fascists-built firing point near the former concentration camp Stalag-328 near Lviv citadel

There was a nice view of the Lviv High Castle hill through a frame of leaves.

A view of Lviv High Castle hill from the citedl hill, framed by leaves

The main building of the Citadel was used by some bank at the time of my visit.

«Volksbank» in one of Citadel buildings. Lviv, Ukraine, 2013

The tower nr. 2 was living its best times. There was a hotel inside, and the tower looked very well maintained, up to the point when it started to remind a spaceship.

The Big Maximilan tower nr. 2 of the Lviv Citadel. Ukraine, 2013

Many smaller buildings were standing around on the Citadel hill, and I stumbled upon a nice post-apocalyptic sports area.

DIY bars for pull-ups, parallel bars — this had the name «training ground Citadel»

The Citadel got checked out as visited in my checklist. I went down, and the random, partially pedestrian stairway, street I turned into was called Kolessy street.

Stairway of the F. Kolessy street in Lviv, Ukraine. 2013

New tourist navigation signs were installed in the old city. Maybe, in the rest of the city, too.

Navigational signs for tourists in Lviv

I had never been at the place called High Castle before. This was an issue to be addressed.

The uphill road to the Lviv High Castle park. Ukraine, 2013

There weren't any castles up there (all had been ruined), but it was a nice place anyway. The views of the city were nice. Here's a pic of the Saint George sobor. But a taxi driver told me that sobor was a Polish word, and we should be calling it a церква (tserkva). Okay, let it be. I'm an atheist and I do not oppose any of these words more than the other.

Saint George sobor or a church in Lviv, as seen from the High Castle hill. Ukraine

The hill is a natural one, and people called it Zamkova hora (Castle mountain). There was another hill on the top of it — a man-made one dedicated to the 300-th anniversary of the Union of Lublin. This artificial peak was called accordingly — Union of Lublin Mound, with the «mound» word being a translation that does not pass all the sense, but it's official. A flagpole stood on its top, with an observation deck around it. The tip of the mound was reachable by spiralling stairway, and had nice tree roots on its reinforced surface.

коріння в кам'яній стіні. Lviv, Ukraine, 2013

This is the mound viewed from below. Photographed from Pidzamche micro-district.

Union of Lublin Mound. Lviv, Ukraine, 2013

I enjoyed the wide views and descended to the old town using the Barvinskyh street. It was not a flatland here. Stairways were needed to reach one street from another.

Stairway between Barvinskyh and Lysenka streets in Lviv, Ukraine.

Museum of national liberation struggle stood at the lower end of that stairway. The building previously housed a shooter's union.

Museum of national liberation struggle on Ukraine

A piece of a little tower near the museum, with a rockfall warning on it.

a small ruined tower. Lviv, Ukraine, 2013
Stop! Rockfall!

A combination of random factors had led me to a taxidermist's workshop. My first time? Yes. My last time? Quite probably, also a «yes».

ears of a stuffed hare

It was wet from a rain when we exited the workshop at night. We were going to stay at a friend in Sykhiv district, not photographed because of darkness.

Night in Lviv

Our first place to visit in the morning was the Stryisky park, because of the children's railway. But it also did not work! The reason being it was the first day of school that day. Well okay, we did not crave for it.

A nice but untranslatable wordplay on a sign: the «beware of train» sign was added a word to become «beware of -sexual- train». «Train» and «healing» are the same word in Ukrainian, both being based on «to pull».

Wordplay at Lviv children's railway: beware of «sexual» train.
I can say that I should have taken this sign in serious consideration. It is too late for me already, but may be not too late for you. I double warn you. Do beware of the sexual train!

The «Ivasyk-Telesyk» park fountain was a lovely white among the dark green of high trees.

The «Ivasyk-Telesyk» park fountain in Stryisky park. Lviv, Ukraine, 2013

This was the depot paired with a library. The library looked a bit under-maintained.

back of a wagon and the depot of children's railway of Lviv

A transformer booth.

the transforming substation of the Lviv children's railway

Half of a sculpture being more interesting than the full version could possibly be.

Lower half of a sculpture of a woman in Stryisky park. Lviv, Ukraine, 2013

The abandoned greenhouse not far from the main entrance of the park. The moss reached as high as possible — to the very ceiling.

abandoned greenhouse in the Stryisky park

Stairs inside the building at Rynok square, 13.

Stairs inside the building at Rynok square, 13.

I got dragged into a rather silly excursion under the Dominican church. This place is accessible without an excursion, too.

the basement of the Dominican church

This neo-gothic building has a Wikipedia article! Not on the English wiki, though. Search for the Palace of Turkul-Comello, if you are interested. The address was Pekarska street, 50. A fun fact is that the main facade of this building does not look to the street, looking into its own big yard instead. We noticed it because we were moving on the neighboring street.

Palace of Turkul-Comello, Lviv, Ukraine, 2013. Neo-gothic architecture.

The Pohulianka park was mainly a forest, but had a small civilized part with strange park benches,

a weird bench in Pohulianka park, Lviv, Ukraine, 2013

and a chain of little ponds infested by unpleasantly looking water plants.

water vegetation in Pohulianka park ponds. Lviv, Ukraine, 2013

Pohulianka park can be reached by tram. Here are the control booth and the end of the tram route number 7, seen from the Lychakivske cemetery.

end of tram route nr. 7. Filipivka neighborhood. Lviv, Ukraine, 2013

I had never been to another one of the main touristic points of Lviv — Lychakivske cemetery. Another issue that had to be addressed. The entry turned out to be paid. I paid and saw graves for money. Taking photos was also paid as an extra. The WC was also requiring a fee. There were lots of free unofficial entrances. I left the cemetery using one of these holes.

sculptures and tombstones of Lychakivske cemetery

a UAH 10 priced ticket allowing taking photos of Lychakivske

lviv-lychakiv.ukrain.travel. It was a whole lot of UAH 10 then.

Forest paths in the Znesinnya park. I used them to reach the Pidzamche part of Lviv. It was hilly there in the forest. Mostly downhill from my location.

a path in Znesinnya forest. Lviv, Ukraine, 2013

The downhill led me to a pedestrian overpass over the railroad. I crossed from Balkova street and found myself on Kovalska street.

pedestrian bridge over the railway, Pidzamche, Lviv, Ukraine

Someone had discarded a toy that was traditionally sold to train passengers from the platforms of Synelnykovo train station in Dnipro region.

a discarded plush toy on the rail near Lviv's Pidzamche train station

A greek-catholic church was being constructed. People of this planet can't stop building churches.

construction of the mother of god — lord over Ukraine on Lviv's Novoznesinska street

I decided to play a mind game and trust my intuition in the choice of a bus route. Intuition said that all public transport should be passing the center, because I was deep into the city's backyard. That assumption would prove itself false in 10 minutes of riding in a marshrutka of route 19. Okay, mind game was over. I had to stop trusting intuition and looked at the map in my phone. Got out on Bohdana Khmelnitskoho street which I saw from the Union of Lublin Mound. It looked like a nice place from above, but it was not too nice in person.

A citizen of Lviv mounts his bicycle in the middle of the street

I waited for whatever bus that went in the opposite direction. Checked with the map, and this time the route was fine for me. But it was moving so painfully slow that I got out and half-ran through some industrial area in the direction of high castle. Goodbye, slow bus.