Matviy Andreyev

Posted on 14 March 2025
Matviy Andreyev

Kamianets-Podilskyi

9 – 12 May 2021

Kamianets is the most beautiful city of Ukraine. No offense. If disagreed, one should come here for a couple days in May, when everything is in full blossom mode here, and walk inside the Smotrych river canyon — the more, the better. The unique terrain here is the main point of it all, and it is beautiful. It has been here way before the city and the castle appeared — 20 million years versus 600 something.

Vertical granite cliffs of Smotrych canyon among the trees. Kamianets-Podilskyi, Ukraine

When I saw the canyon for the first time in 2004, I was stunned and even lost interest in the city itself for that day. The city has added bridges, footbridges, paths, stairways and the castle to the already beautiful natural place.

footbridge over Smotrych river in the center of the city. Granite walls of the canyon. Kamianets-Podilskyi, Ukraine

This city stands in a natural park of worldwide importance, so obviously beautiful that it is hard to believe that it wasn't on the World heritage list some time ago. It is now. Plentiful paths, stairs, bridges, several streams flowing on granite bedrock, old hydro-technical objects make 30 thousand steps a day an easy (and obligatory) thing. It is definitely very pleasant for cyclists as well.

a gravel road and an old stairway at the bottom of Smotrych canyon among the rich green vegetation. Kamianets-Podilskyi, Ukraine

This old Ferris wheel is a thing that is strongly in contrast with the modern ways of entertainment here, such as expensive air balloon flights or yellow heavy-duty vehicle scenic routes. The ticket price is one part of that contrast, with the Ferris wheel being on the cheaper side of the price spectrum.

The view from and through the Ferris wheel. Kamianets-Podilskyi, Ukraine
a gravel road under a granite wall of Smotrych canyon. Podilsky tovtry reserve. Kamianets-Podilskyi, Ukrainea small waterfall in the city center of Kamianets-Podilskyi, Ukraine

May is the month when this yellow plant blossoms here. It was adding so much beauty that I had to google its name. If I did not fail at it, the name is Basket of gold (Aurinia saxatilis). The Ukrainian Wikipedia says that the plant is a rare one in this counntry, which does not seem so when you are walking through Kamianets, where it seems to be abundant. Let it be even more of it!

Basket of gold growing on a medieval wall of the old town. Kamianets-Podilskyi, Ukraine
Basket of gold on a medieval wall of the old town, growing over private houses below. Kamianets-Podilskiy, Ukraine
Basket of gold on a medieval wall of the old town, growing near a tower passage on a cobbled uphill road. Kamianets-Podilskiy, Ukraine

Little bridges

Apart from the main bridges, Kamianets has many small footbridges crossing the tiny Smotrych river at the bottom of the canyon. One of them was already shown above. These bridges are old and new, wide and not so much, with some of them posing dangers of some level. They also make walks more interesting.

A pedestrian bridge with a gateway inside Smotrych canyon. Kamianets-Podilskyi, Ukraine
An almost ruined wooden footbridge over Smotrych river. Kamianets-Podilskyi, Ukraine
A weak wooden footbridge over Smotrych in Kamianets-Podilskyi, Ukraine
A nice footbridge over the Smotrych river. Kamianets-Podilskyi, Ukraine
A nice footbridge with handrails over Smotrych. Kamianets-Podilskyi, Ukraine
A nice footbridge with wire ropes as handrails over Smotrych, under a lovely tree branch.   Kamianets-Podilskyi, Ukraine
A nice and long footbridge in a wide place on Smotrych river, not far from the Running deer bridge. Kamianets-Podilskyi, Ukraine

There are small bridges crossable by small cars, too. This one, for example, was made of metal sheets and had no handrails whatsoever.

A low metal bridge for pedestrians and light cars inside the Smotrych canyon. Kamianets-Podilskyi, Ukraine

It was on one of these bridges that the age of this beautiful stuff took their toll from me. An old wire rope that was also serving as a handrail on a shaky suspension footbridge had several wires broken due to the elements and the time. I cut my finger noticeably, and sacrificed some blood to the canyon. Not angry — the canyon is well worth a scratch or two.

Sharp ends of broken wires of a rusty wire rope on a footbridge. Kamianets-Podilskyi, Ukraine

Stairways

Another abundant thing here were stairs, also increasing the quality of walking routes. One big stairway was already almost ruined. It could be that it was the biggest one in the city. This stairway was looking only better on this stage of decay.

Heavily decayed big stairs on the wall of Smotrych canyon. Kamianets-Podilskyi, Ukraine
Steps made of stones with a wooden handrail in Smotrych canyon. Kamianets-Podilskyi, Ukraine
Old stairway with cracks and plants. Path between Smotrych canyon and Ruski filvarki, near an observation deck.  Kamianets-Podilskyi, Ukraine
Ruined stairs with plants in cracks. City park ←→ Smotrych canyon. Kamianets-Podilskyi, Ukraine
Stairs on the wall of the Castle bridge. Kamianets-Podilskyi, Ukraine
Stairs. Kamianets-Podilskyi, Ukraine

One of these stairs were on our way to this place, proving that Kamianets indeed is the most beautiful city of Ukraine. Any objections?

Apple trees, dandelions and red tulips at full blossom mode in one place full of green grass. Kamianets-Podilskyi, Ukraine

The castle

Old news, but there's a medieval castle in Kamianets-Podilsky. Despite my full understanding of its fame and the amount of photos taken of it, I am still showing some of my photos with it visible. The castle serves well to the purpose of completing the already nice views. Here it is, not without another footbridge over Smotrych.

Footbridge and the castle as seen from the Richna street near the footbridge to Karvasary street. Kamianets-Podilskyi, Ukraine

Please, have another view of the castle — this time, it is from the bedrock of Dibrukha stream riverbed near Karvasary street.

Castle and Dibrukha stream's granite steps. Kamianets-Podilskyi, Ukraine

I've seen the castle from the outside

Side fiew of the castle. Kamianets-Podilskyi, UkraineSide view of the castle. Kamianets-Podilskyi, Ukraine

and from the insides.

a view through a castle passage. Kamianets-Podilskyi, Ukraine
a view through a round window in the castle. Kamianets-Podilskyi, Ukraine
a view through a castle's round window with a rifle slit. Kamianets-Podilskyi, Ukraine

I have also witnessed the night view of the illuminated castle — a thing every Ukrainian has to do at least once during their lifetime.

The castle at night. Kamianets-Podilskyi, Ukraine

It added a lot to this dirty path on the riverbank of Smotrych.

A path on Smotrych riverbank, with the castle in perspective. Evening. Kamianets-Podilskyi, Ukraine

While making a small detour into the adjacent Smotrych village, we stumbled upon a water source (or just a faucet) of a brutal design. The water was running non-stop. I did drink it.

A water source with a strange design. Смотрич, Україна

* * *

Now to the important piece of knowledge about Kamianets. Let's suppose that you seized to like this city and what is offered here it is not enough for you anymore. In such case, you can travel for just 20 kilometres using own transport or a bus like this one and get to the Ustia village.

Автобус до Великої Слободи через село Устя на автовокзалі у Kamianets-Podilskyi, Ukraine

What for? Because of the...

Dnister canyon

There it is, visible from the village bus stop.

A pit latrine painted blue with the Dnister river canyon on the background. Ustia village, Khmelnytsky region of Ukraine

The edge of the cliff can be walked on.

Dnister canyon cliff. Ustia village, Khmelnytsky region of Ukraine

Lots of wild flowers on and along the path, if the time of year is proper.

A strip of yellow blossom on the cliff edge. Dnister canyon in Ustia village, Ukraine

One path will lead you to the Smotrych river mouth — one of many magnificent places of the canyon.

Smotrych river mouth in the Dnister canyon. stia village, Khmelnytsky region of Ukraine

* * *

Old town from the viewpoint on Ruski filvarki.

A view of the old town from Ruski filvarki observation deck. Kamianets-Podilskyi, Ukraine

A semi-random view from the castle in the direction of Polski filvarki.

A view of Polski filvarki from the castle. Kamianets-Podilskyi, Ukraine

Let me end this with someone's joke on a door in the city.

Many prohibiting signs stickers on some door. Kamianets-Podilskyi, Ukraine
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