Matviy Andreyev

Edirne

Matviy Andreyev

We were coming into this town near the borders of Turkey, Greece and Bulgaria from Babaeski — in a car. Edirne edge was looking like this, with a tall building of hotel under construction at that time.

View of Edirne from the highway incoming from Babaeski. Edirne, Turkey

We were in the town for a few hours — half a day or so. During this short time, we saw the rather famous Selimiye mosque, the much less famous mosque and hospital complex of Bayazid the 2nd, and the town's garage area.

Selimiye mosque

The place before the entrance was full of pigeons waiting for free food. Local entrepreneurs were here, readily selling pigeons' free food to us for an amount not equal to zero.

pigeons near the Selimiye mosque in Turkey's Edirne

«Entry to the mosque is through the bazaar» is a phrase from a popular book over some post-soviet territories. It turned out to be not a joke — at all. It was unexpected. You are prepared for religious righteousness, you saw women covering their hair before entering. You pass through the door and observe soccer fan t-shirts, sports shoes, logotypes like Lotto hanging over it all.

Entry to the mosque is through the bazaar. Edirne, Turkey

Apart from clothes and household goods, the assortment of the mosque contained usual turkish sweets, sugar-enriched to sky limits. Didn't buy anything, ha ha!

I was not attentive when I was inside. Later, while scrolling through the photos, I noticed that the mosque was a serious feat of architecture. Both inside the hall and outside, in the garden. It is actually a listed world heritage architectural site. The architect was the revered Sinan.

A woman vacuuming the carpet of Selimiye mosque. Edirne, Turkey
A wide photo of the Selimiye mosque hall. Edirne, Turkey

By the way: it is allowed to take photos everywhere in Turkey, whether in a mosque, or in a supermarket, or in a museum. Probably, not including military sites — I didn't check that one.

The domed hall is impressive.

numerous windows of the domed hall in the Selimiye mosque, Edirne, Turkey

I've been to a school some time ago, and there were several classrooms with ceilings as high as 4 meters. Changing light-bulbs was a task requiring a ladder, a prayer and an experienced adult. Looking at this domed room now, I think that they've solved the light bulb problem by moving them down on a frame. That is good for them, but a heap of other maintenance tasks are left to take care of. Wiping the dust off everywhere. Maintaining the hooks of the light bulb frame up there in the dome. I hope these are being performed by a human with a jetpack.

In other words, more beauty requires more maintenance.

Stairs like these are called «minbar». They are used by imams to reach the elevated place to deliver the sermon from.

the minbar of the Selimiye mosque, Edirne, Turkey

Several random photos of Selimiye mosque.

the ceiling. Selimiye mosque, Edirne, Turkey
frame on which the lightbulbs are. Selimiye mosque, Edirne, Turkey
a window in a garden wall. Selimiye mosque, Edirne, Turkey
minarets seen from an archway. Selimiye mosque, Edirne, Turkey
water fountain for purification before prayers. Selimiye mosque, Edirne, Turkey
one of the domed passages through the garden wall. Selimiye mosque, Edirne, Turkey

There are lots of other mosques to talk about. You see one through the windows of another.

A mosque seen from another mosque. Edirne, Turkey

Downtown

Kadırhane street.

Kadırhane street. Edirne, Turkey

A word I heard before: Kervansaray. The one in Edirne hosted a hotel, and looked like new. It would have been nice to drink a tea or a coffee under this wall.

Kervansaray. Edirne, Turkey

A small pedestrian area was there in the center. We ate some street food here.

fragment of the city center. Edirne, Turkey

An old building with small offices of various businesses.

an old business center. Edirne, Turkey

One of central streets.

A crossing on a central street. Edirne, Turkey

A bus.

A bus. Edirne, Turkey

Complex of Sultan Bayezid II

This is a külliye — a complex of buildings of various purposes, usually centered around a mosque. It is just outside the Edirne's city line.

We visited the hospital museum, which had many crazy drawings of episodes from the ancient medicine, and many realistic wax figures depicting it.

Complex of Sultan Bayazid 2. Edirne, Turkey
Doors and a footpath in the külliye of Sultan Bayazid 2. Edirne, Turkey

A room with a madman.

Wax figure of a madman. Bayazid 2nd ancient hospital museum. Edirne, Turkey

They were trying to heal stuff with music.

Musicians healing someone with music. A scene of wax figures in the ancient hospital museum. Bayazid 2nd historical site. Edirne, Turkey

These highly realistic wax figures were depicting a scene of provoking a venomous snake's bite of a rooster, in order to make chicken soup using from the soon-to-be dead bird. In further order to heal someone from something with something resembling homeopathy but slightly crazier.

Wax figures of a doctor and a patioent. Doctor provoking a snake to bite a rooster; the snake will do exactly that; the deceased bird is going to be boiled to make a soup; a patient will eat the soup with the hopes of getting well soon. Edirne, Turkey

A drawing of a girl with chicken pox.

A drawing of a girl with chicken pox in the Bayazid 2nd ancient hospital museum. Edirne, Turkey

A doctor pushing death away from his patient. Charcoal on paper.

A doctor pushing death away from his patient. Charcoal on paper. Bayazid 2nd ancient hospital museum. Edirne, Turkey

It was possible to stray behind the outer walls of the complex to see the Tunca river with an old bridge. What other name could the bridge have, if not «the bridge of Bayezid the 2nd»?.

the Tunca river and the Bayezid 2nd bridge. Edirne, Turkey

This place was not far from Tunca's mouth in river Mariç.

The whole complex was white and gray, not very pleasant for the eyes. Well, not including the place from the following picture. It would have been nice to drink some tea here, but no one was selling it, despite having tables and chairs put out near the pillars.

A tree with white flowers and the inner garden of the Bayezid complex. Edirne, Turkey

It was raining heavily while we were lazily staring at wax figures. I was grateful to these white and gray walls (and to roofs of the same color) for the shelter.

A footpath wet from rain and a window. Bayazid 2nd mosque. Edirne, Turkey
the inner patio with a fountain and caricatures of scientists (we saw Louis Pasteur and Marie Curie). Edirne, Turkey
A niche with an ornament. Mosque of Bayazid 2nd. Edirne, Turkey
A gallery, pillars, coffee tables and the garden. Mosque of Bayezid 2nd. Edirne, Turkey
A niche with a water faucet. Mosque of Bayezid 2nd. Edirne, Turkey
The bust of sultan Bayezid the 2nd. Edirne, Turkey

Sanayi sitesi

This literally means «factory site» and is an area with large garages and workshops, such as — but not limited to — car repairs. I've seen such areas in Lüleburgaz, Babaeski, Edirne and Kırklareli. This area in Edirne was a rectangular grid of wide service lanes and blocks of big boxes capable of accepting rather large vehicles.

A repair shop area (sanayi sitesi). Edirne, Turkey
A mannequin on one corner of sanayi sitesi. Edirne, Turkey
Open boxes of car repair garages in sanayi sitesi. Edirne, Turkey
Horse cart transporting something in sanayi sitesi. Edirne, Turkey

They even had at least one mosque inside this area of garages. Yet another difference from the garages of Ukraine.

* * *

A man on a prison's watchtower. I don't remember how exactly did we get near this place. Did we get lost?

A watchtower over the prison's fence. Edirne, Turkey.

A (crappy) view of the city from a bridge under construction.

A view of the town from a bridge over Tunca river. Edirne, Turkey